Still Learning (Katrina von Hahn)

Exactly one year ago I was also in Santiago, but I was here for very different reasons than I am now. I was studying abroad for six months, from January to June, in Santiago at the Catholic University of Chile. I was comforted by the fact there was an extremely experienced program director, a supportive host family, and a structured agenda I had to follow. Flash-forward to this January, and while I am in the same city it is an entirely new, distinct, experience. We have the opportunity to be our own “program directors” here and aren’t bound by any predetermined schedules. Instead, as a group Sarah, Omar, Adam and I collectively determine where we want to go and what we want to see in our free time. Needless to say, I have gotten to know a new Santiago and feel all the more comfortable in this city.

Last weekend, Adam’s quest for cooking spices propelled us to La Vega Central. Seeing as I believed I had visited La Vega on my own last year, I was certain that I could get the group there. We had planned to travel to this fruit and vegetable market on Saturday morning, but by coincidence we found ourselves there on Friday afternoon. We briefly walked around and I brought us into the building that I assumed was La Vega. For some reason, it felt underwhelming and lacked the chaos I expected to find in the city’s primary market. So naturally when we got home I spoke with my Chilean friend and asked him why La Vega was so small. It turns out that I had actually taken us to an insignificant distributor’s building as opposed to the true Vega Central. My friend could not believe that I had managed to mistake the famous Vega Central, but fortunately there was still plenty of time to rectify the situation.

The next morning, we ventured down to the true, authentic Vega Central and it was immediately clear that we had found the right spot. The market itself is comprised of three large buildings, each with their own streets and alleys that divide the space and give each vendor their allocated stall. Venders would refer to each other by their nationality, as we would hear them yell “oye haitiano” (hey Haitian) or “ahi esta el colombiano” (there is the Colombian man.) Though we were there for nearly an hour and a half, we believe we only saw one other tourist, as everyone else was a local. Our morning at La Vega gave me a sense of what authentic, Chilean markets are like and it was a refreshing “non touristy” experience. I can say with certainty that this market was well worth the original mix-up!

Another “first” for me was going to La Piojera, which is a bar that is steeped in history and politics. I had heard of it while I was studying abroad, but stories from my Chilean friends kept me from going at night or going only with a group of girls. But considering I was accompanied by Sarah, Adam, and Omar and it was only around 2 in the afternoon, La Piojera seemed much more inviting and appealing. We were greeted by live, Chilean music and a full house that was almost all men. One cannot go to La Piojera and not try a classic “terremoto” (earthquake) so we all enjoyed a taste of the sweet drink. After finding a seat in the crowded room, we noted the political flyers and papers that acted as wallpaper as well as the non-conventional art made of straws. La Piojera is the epitome of a truly local and politically charged bar.

Earlier this week, Omar suggested we go to the Cementerio General de Santiago, which is the second largest cemetery in Latin America. This was an activity I would never have thought of, but was grateful that it had been recommended. When we arrived, I asked for a couple directions and this led to a conversation with a staff member who decided to give us an extensive tour of the cemetery. We toured the mausoleums of all Chilean presidents, excluding three, and also saw the graves of famous Chilean poets, artists, and musicians. Though we were moving quickly from grave to grave, it was still emotional seeing the graves of people who were tortured and killed during the dictatorship. The contrast between the lavish mausoleums and the unadorned, simple gravesites was astounding and spoke to the vast segregation that divides Chile.

These new experiences for me are more than just another box to tick off on my list of things to see in Chile. All of these visits, tours, and experiences allow new feelings and thoughts to surface and also spark thoughtful conversations. To say I feel lucky to be back in Chile is an absolute understatement; it is a privilege to continue learning about a city I have come to love.